Category: Glycolic Acids

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FEELING FOREVER 45: BIOKORIUM® SKIN CARE: 04.07.2018

Aging is a disease and everyone has it……

When I started to take a closer look at Skin Care I didn’t look at the science of ingredients. I didn’t even look at the process in which the skin works. I looked at the research on longevity and what all the major research centers such as MIT, Harvard, Stanford, etc… were doing in the field of Anti-Aging. I wanted to know if in the future we would just take a pill and live to be 150 years of age free from disease. That is exactly what many researchers think. Maybe a pill or maybe some kind of cocktail….it will be that easy to live way beyond our current life expectations. The only issue I had with this theory is that who wants to look 150? Who wants to look 100 for that matter? And who was discussing Anti Aging of the skin?

At BioKorium Skin Care we have thought long and hard about the future of Skin Care. We believe the future of Skin Care will also be very similar to the future of internal aging. We believe that there will be certain topical applications that will s— l— o— w down the external aging and maintain the health and youthfulness of the skin. So much so that when you reach the age of 150 you’ll look FABULOUS.

We also believe that repairing, rebooting, rejuvenating and revolumizing the skin will play a bigger role in the overall health and wellbeing of the entire body and all its processes.

And one more thing, I can assure all my clients and friends that BioKorium will be in the fore front of all future Anti Aging products, treatments and protocols.

Above is an example of my work …..Vivian “the face lift facialist.”  The Future of Skin Care is here!

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WINTERTIME: THE BEST TIME FOR CHEMICAL PEELING

By Vivian Moreno, Esthetician

This is one question I get a lot, simply because everyone wants to have a chemical peel in order to improve their appearance.  We’ve been told it’s an easy and quick solution for our facial woes.  But depending on the season, a peel may not be conducive to receiving optimium results, and aren’t results what we expect?  Therefore, the time of the year is important because Chemical Peeling  is as if your putting your skin thru a major workout, its trauma to the skin and the conditions for recovery is what’s equally important.

I have already begun my chemical peel for the winter.  Because of my age I will try to fit in at least 3 peels for the season. I will Include some spotting especially around my mouth and eyes. Check with your Doctor or Skin Care Professional if you are planning to do your eyes. I recommend the eyes for some of my clients but not all of them. People want  to peel and get the results, but what they don’t  realize or understand is the healing process.  The detail is in the healing not the peeling. No one teaches us this, even the professionals don’t, some clients will freak out during recovery. The whole idea with a chemical peel is to create a wound so that the skin can go through the healing process. There are 3 to 4 stages of healing (depending on who you ask) so it does take some time. If the skin heals up properly the collagen will rebuild and strengthen the skin, Awsome! If the skin is left vulnerable and  healing is interrupted problems can occur.

Skin redness, heat bumps, tightening, itchiness, and dry cracked peely skin, are all common after a chemical peel.  The deeper you take your peel the more activity will occur.  This is the natural inflammation process at work, which initiates the process of healing.  All these sequences need to be understood in order to make the final goal productive.

Now lets look at why Winter peeling  is more beneficial than Summer Peeling.   The Summer Season consist of more sunshine therefore more heat and sweat. which is not as conducive to a chemical peel, especially in regards to the healing aspect. With heat there is more opportunity for infection as well as its effect on nerve endings, causing more pain, discomfort, and irritation.  With more sunlight there is the opportunity for skin complications including discoloration. In the summer I like to use a light glycolic acid or a pumpkin enzyme for maintenance. If I am in need of a peel I will stick to a lunch time peel or a light peel that I really won’t have any down time or problems.

The Wintertime is the  perfect time to prepare your skin for the following summer by doing a peel. I will in fact try to get as much peeling in as possible.  It’s the perfect time and seasonal environment to build skin strength and skin immunity which leads to skin health.  What I mean, is that if you have skin health, your skin will have the strength and ability to endure and absorb the challenges of the following summer season.   The cool temperature of winter feels better on your skin and  is less irritating when your skin is healing. There is a reason why most surgeries are done in sub normal temperature environments.  A cooler surgery room means less chance of infection and other anomalies. In the cold winter months you are more likely to stay indoors and out of the sun during the healing process.

If you decide on getting  a professional peel this winter, be sure your Skin care professional is highly skilled.  A chemical peel performed correctly will lift and tighten the skin, add amazing clarity, reduce and eliminate fine lines and wrinkles, and most importantly, bring your skin back to better health.  That’s why the professional you choose to perform this procedure is important.  A Chemical Peel done wrong may cause deeper wrinkles, dry your skin out, increase the opportunity for discoloration and age the skin faster by the very anti-aging methods used, causing faster sagging of the skin. Remember the detail is in the healing not the peeling.

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BIOKORIUM® SKIN WATER® WITH HYDRO-FORCE® TECHNOLOGY… WE HAVE YOUR BACK!

BioKorium Skin Water is the first hydrating product which can be used for Skin, Hair and Scalp…. Now with Hydro-Force Technology….We have your back!

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BIOKORIUM ORIGINAL FACIAL WASH: NO WATER NEEDED

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BioKorium Original Facial Wash was developed for our Glycolic Acid Line. As a Registered Clinical Pharmacist I looked at cleansers that were being applied to bed ridden patients, and noticed that some of them were never rinsed-off, just wiped with a soft cloth. Our Facial Washes were based on the concept that they could be applied to the skin without rinsing, remove dirt, oils and skin debris. Further, the products were designed and formulated for better feel, texture, and ease of application. They are non-comedogenic, will not affect the natural pH balance of your skin, fragrance free, and Pharmacist developed and formulated. We feel our facial washes our the best on the market today.     The American Medical Association and Dermatologist state that soap and water will serve the same purpose as cleansing creams and lotions, is less expensive, and offers less risk of allergy.  However,soap can be more drying and irritating to the skin.  For this reason, I developed this Sulphate-Free Formulation 17 years ago when sulphate-free wasn’t even popular.

Our facial wash gently cleanses to remove oils and debris without the drying properties of other soaps and facial cleansers.  In addition, for those undergoing laser or chemical peeling, you will find this wash ideal for lightly cleansing tender skin of exfoliating skin debris in the post-op healing stages, while leaving skin clean and moisturized.    BioKorium’s Original Facial Wash is non-comedogenic, fragrance free and can be used on the most sensitive skin.  It’s been designed to be non-lathering, therefore allowing it to rinse easily, it can even be used to cleanse your hair if you forget your shampoo.  Many people our unaware that lathering has no purpose other than esthetic purpose and the illusion that the product is effective.  The non lathering character in no way hinders character. For Men, it can be used as a shaving lotion.  Because of its silky and gliding character, many have been using it as a base to shave with great results. Get in on the opportunity to experience our Original Facial Wash for the price of $19.00 for a 16 floz bottle.

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MY SCALP PEELING REGIMEN

by Vivian Moreno, Esthetician

I will be scalp peeling Today I have not peeled my scalp for some time. I will be using:

Microscrub Cream, Glycolic Acid 7% Cream, SkinWater Cream, Javier’s famous Scalp Serum, and a color brush (for the application process) .  This process will cleanse the scalp and pores, allowing optimum follicle health with resulting hair growth.

1.Apply Microscrub Cream directly to scalp with the color brush, as if you would be applying color.  With your fingers gently scrub your scalp for about 15 min.  At the very end of your gentle scrub session, your scalp may feel a little raw or sore,  that’s OK, because that is the sensation you are looking for.   Then rinse off.

2. Next, apply 7% Glycolic Acid Cream directly to scalp as if you would be applying color.  I’ve decided to try to leave this on for about an hour today.  The Glycolic can be left on from 15 minutes to a couple of hours.  I have even tried overnite. The longer you leave it on the flakier your scalp will become.  The flakes will look like dandruff.  It is a personal preference you will only be able to handle the sting for a while.  Today there is a definite sting happening on my scalp.  I will see how long I can handle it.  Last, rinse off ( If I only leave the Glycolic on a short time, sometime I will not rinse off.  I will just apply the SkinWater Cream.  The Skin Water Cream will neutralize the Glycolic Acid Cream).

3. Apply Javier’s Magic Scalp Serum, and let set for a couple of minutes DO NOT REMOVE.

4. Apply Skin Water,  AHHH this will cool everything down.  I will leave this on for an hour.  Then I will Wash and Condition my hair.

5. Then Style to perfection!!!  WOW ! AMAZING HAIR…

6. Now my husband will have to take me out…

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MY WINTER PEEL: THE HEALING

by Vivian Moreno, Esthetician

My forehead looks really dry and flaky today, almost blistery. Anything I put on at this time is going sting.  But I still need to clean and cover it.  I don’t want to wipe the residual skin off my face right away, because I rather the skin fall off on its own.  This is one of the biggest mistakes that women make, is that they pull or remove the peeling skin before its time.  This will just cause more irritation, because they will expose the new tender skin below and extend unnecessary healing time.  But at the same time, I still have to clean my face, but I don’t want to use the facial wash on my face.  Less wiping means less healing time.  So I will use my Skin Water Cream for cleaning and hydrating.

My Regimen:

  1. I will apply a heavy coat of Skin Water Cream, and let set for only about 3 minute because yes it does sting.
  2. Then remove gently with a wet cool towel, and I mean gently.
  3. Then apply a good coat of Waterscreen Ointment.  It will look goopy  and shiny. About a fifty cent size.

I’m finished, my skin does feel itchy today, but not to bad of an itch. But overall it really looks good and progessing beautifully.  I’m expecting four days of healing time based on what I see.  This is my photo Journal of Winter 2011 Chemical Peeling.  I peel my skin about 3 maybe 4 times in the winter because the cool weather is more comfortable.

by Vivian Moreno, Esthetician

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MY WINTER PEEL: THE TREATMENT

by Vivian Moreno, Esthetician

Its time to Peel! ..and Winter is the best time to do a peel.  My recomendation is for those of us 45 and older should Peel at least 2 times this season. Make sure you have a skin care coach, esthetician, or trainer, that can help and direct you. I will be posting my regimens daily. DO NOT PEEL unless you have Skinwater and Waterscreen.  This is my photo Journal of Winter 2011 Chemical Peeling.  I peel my skin about 3 maybe 4 times in the winter because the cool weather is more comfortable.

Today I am just going to peel my forehead I will be using Numbing gel (fresh mint gel toothpaste) because I hate the sting, 5% Glycolic Acid Cream, Skinwater, and Waterscreen. Make sure with any peeling that you figure in down time for healing. At least 3 to 4 days.

1.  I will apply the numbing on my forehead for about 3 minutes, then Rinse off with cool towel.

2.  I am going to start applying the glycolic at 15 min intervals. It should feel like a cool tingle at first. My goal is to get it to feel like a bad sunburn. I may need to layer this 3 to 4 times. I do not remove any cream during this process, I just keep layering. When it becomes to hot to handle! (This normally takes me about 3 hours with 5% glycolic acid cream or lotion.)

3.  I will layer a heavy coat of skinwater Let it set for 20 min. ( This time my skin absorbed so much Skinwater that I had to reapply a second coat).  Then rinse off with a cool towel gently.

4.  Apply a good coat of Waterscreen.

With this treatment I will experience a lot of flaking and it will really “ITCH.”   I will post my after care and explain why I do this.

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SKIN CARE CONCEPTS THAT DIDN’T SOUND RIGHT

I am not a traditional facialist to say the least, but I was taught that way.  Much of what I was taught just didn’t make any sense to me. Those electronic skin care devices such as galvanic currents, the pretty colored light therapy that ranged from blue, green, yellow and red, and of course the draconian steam.  I called this the “fluff facial”.  Its has all the bells and whistles that most clients expect in a facial.  Many customer and clientele came in expecting this treatment.  Was it helping, of course not, but it sure gave the impression it did, and it looked pretty impressive to the customer, and in their mind they were convinced by the technology and believed results were happening.  But I honestly had to tell them, “Sorry, that’s not what I do.”  This was when I began to think out of the box.  I would tell them, when you lay on my treatment bed, you will not hear music, or have steam thrown in your face, or me massaging your shoulders, or will I be inundating you with unique scents….When come to see me you will not have all that, you will hear me talking…and talking skin.  Teaching you and telling you what you need to do to take care of your skin.

What happened, was that I realized everything that I learned in school didn’t sound right.  Placing steam, pretty lights and electronic devices on clients skin; was it really making a difference and transforming their skin?  Were they getting the results they expected? Were they happy and satisfied? Or the question was, did they even care?  We reached out to a niche market of clients unsatisfied with traditional facials, and wanted rational answers and most of all, a rational treatment regimen that made sense and gave results.  This initiated my search and destroy method of the current status quo thought to skin care.  And to this day many listen, then cringed, then listened again, then cringed less, and the transformation of new skin care thought and perception began, of course, in so many words.  This is what made me get up every morning and continue to strive for new, simple and basic skin care concepts that make sense, and I know it is successful when our clients our reaching their goals, and telling me, “Vivian,  seeing is believing”.

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GLYCOLIC ACID: HOW IT EFFECTS AND IMPROVES YOUR SKIN

BioKorium has been experimenting and applying Glycolic Acid to their clients and family for 15 years. We are convinced it is the safest way to remove debris from the skin. At BioKorium no two facials are alike, every facial is determined on the client’s skin condition on arrival. All BioKorium’s Creams and Salves are handmade and compounded by co-founder Dr. Javier O. Moreno, Pharm.D., R.Ph. These products are designed to work.  Facials at BioKorium are treatment facials. Results from BioKorium facials using Glycolic Acids are noticed immediately. Every product that we utilize serves a purpose and works.  At BioKorium we believe every woman and man over 40 needs to be on treatment products that work. If we can teach them at 30 the importance of treatment early on, we are ahead of the game. BioKorium Skin Care is not a luxury it’s a necessity.

Glycolic Acid is one of a group of naturally occurring fruit acids also recognized as Alpha Hydroxy Acids or AHA’s. AHA’s are among the oldest of skin care products. Milk baths were included in Marie Antoinette’s beauty ritual, red wine was often the choice of English aristocracy, and raw sugar cane was used on the skin of Polynesian women; all which contain forms of AHA’s.  Glycolic Acid is derived from sugar cane and is non-toxic. It has the ability to dissolve the glue from the upper layer of skin cells allowing a more youthful, smoother looking appearance to be revealed. Unlike other AHA’s such as lactic acid from sour milk or citric acid from citrus fruits, to name a few, Glycolic Acid has the smallest molecular size, therefore it can penetrate the skin more efficiently. It also has the ability to absorb water upon exposure to air therefore functioning to add moisture back into the skin. 5% Glycolic Acid is what we consider “baby glycolic” almost any one can use.

The cells of the Stratum Corneum start life in the Stratum Basal as Basal Membrane Cells. The transformation of the Basal Membrane Cells into Stratum Corneum Cells is shown in the figure to the left. The average transit time of the basal layer to your skin’s natural exfoliation process is approximately 8 weeks. The upper most layer of your skin is composed of the Stratum Corneum, which is a stack of 15 to 20 layers of dead skin cells. Structurally, this layer contributes to the overall elasticity and smooth appearance of the skin.  As we age, the rate in which the Stratum Corneum naturally exfoliates,  decreases, therefore the layer of dead skin cells at the surface increases.  This build up of cells, in conjunction with the decrease ability to retain water, leads to a series of age related surface irregularities. These include the lack of luster and smoothness of the skin, as well as in ones appearance.  The skin at the surface becoming  rough and dry, ultimately leading to the most visible sign of age dependent change……wrinkling.   The first important thing to bring back  is the health of the skin, the side effect will be increased vitality and luster, contributing to ones overall appearance.  Without the health of the skin, you will have neither.

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ACNE MYTHS

Cosmetic Companies want you to have bad skin, that way you are in desperation and always looking.  Looking, to find the answer to clearing your acne skin.  The connection between acne and mainstream acne products is “dehydration”.  What we don’t know about the care of acne is that over washing not only irritates existing acne skin, but can dry the skin by removing the skins protective layer of natural oils which actually prevents the spread of acne associated bacteria. These activities destroys the skins natural resilience and protective properties by destroying the skin natural pH.   Further use of scrubbing cleansers can makes things worse, by further stripping the skin and creating an environment where the skin will have difficulty recuperating to its natural healthy state.  The worst fallacy of acne is that it is directly due to what you eat, in turn, causing increase bacterial growth and oil build up.  Therefore you need to keep it clean, but no to the extent of your skin becoming dry.  People do not realize that the truth regarding acne, is that acne needs moisture, and we fail to moisturize acne skin.  We are taught that acne skin must be scrubbed and cleansed anywhere from twice to three times daily it order for it to go away. Not true! You not only will be destroying your skin but will only exacerbate your problem of acne. The answer is balance, use a low or non alkaline cleanser or facial wash, followed by a good hydration cream, or low percentage glycolic acid cream.