Category: Exfoliating

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MY WINTER PEEL: THE HEALING

by Vivian Moreno, Esthetician

My forehead looks really dry and flaky today, almost blistery. Anything I put on at this time is going sting.  But I still need to clean and cover it.  I don’t want to wipe the residual skin off my face right away, because I rather the skin fall off on its own.  This is one of the biggest mistakes that women make, is that they pull or remove the peeling skin before its time.  This will just cause more irritation, because they will expose the new tender skin below and extend unnecessary healing time.  But at the same time, I still have to clean my face, but I don’t want to use the facial wash on my face.  Less wiping means less healing time.  So I will use my Skin Water Cream for cleaning and hydrating.

My Regimen:

  1. I will apply a heavy coat of Skin Water Cream, and let set for only about 3 minute because yes it does sting.
  2. Then remove gently with a wet cool towel, and I mean gently.
  3. Then apply a good coat of Waterscreen Ointment.  It will look goopy  and shiny. About a fifty cent size.

I’m finished, my skin does feel itchy today, but not to bad of an itch. But overall it really looks good and progessing beautifully.  I’m expecting four days of healing time based on what I see.  This is my photo Journal of Winter 2011 Chemical Peeling.  I peel my skin about 3 maybe 4 times in the winter because the cool weather is more comfortable.

by Vivian Moreno, Esthetician

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MY WINTER PEEL: THE TREATMENT

by Vivian Moreno, Esthetician

Its time to Peel! ..and Winter is the best time to do a peel.  My recomendation is for those of us 45 and older should Peel at least 2 times this season. Make sure you have a skin care coach, esthetician, or trainer, that can help and direct you. I will be posting my regimens daily. DO NOT PEEL unless you have Skinwater and Waterscreen.  This is my photo Journal of Winter 2011 Chemical Peeling.  I peel my skin about 3 maybe 4 times in the winter because the cool weather is more comfortable.

Today I am just going to peel my forehead I will be using Numbing gel (fresh mint gel toothpaste) because I hate the sting, 5% Glycolic Acid Cream, Skinwater, and Waterscreen. Make sure with any peeling that you figure in down time for healing. At least 3 to 4 days.

1.  I will apply the numbing on my forehead for about 3 minutes, then Rinse off with cool towel.

2.  I am going to start applying the glycolic at 15 min intervals. It should feel like a cool tingle at first. My goal is to get it to feel like a bad sunburn. I may need to layer this 3 to 4 times. I do not remove any cream during this process, I just keep layering. When it becomes to hot to handle! (This normally takes me about 3 hours with 5% glycolic acid cream or lotion.)

3.  I will layer a heavy coat of skinwater Let it set for 20 min. ( This time my skin absorbed so much Skinwater that I had to reapply a second coat).  Then rinse off with a cool towel gently.

4.  Apply a good coat of Waterscreen.

With this treatment I will experience a lot of flaking and it will really “ITCH.”   I will post my after care and explain why I do this.

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SWEATING: DOES IT COMPLEMENT MY SKIN?

What’s important to remember is that when you sweat, sweat complements your skin. Well you may ask, how can that be? Isn’t it considered dirty and attracts bacteria and odor? Well I have news for you. Not quite true. Your skin maintains a natural pH of 4.5-5.0 which is scientifically mildly acidic. The pH of Sweat is around 4.0-6.8. When skin is bathed with sweat it helps to maintain the natural acidic pH of skin. It doesn’t stop there, there is indeed a purpose. Sweat helps to maintain the natural healthy pH of the skin. It becomes an effective protective barrier to the elements. Are you still afraid to sweat? Well it also kills bacteria. This brings back the article I wrote regarding Skin and The French Connection, whereby overwashing the skin can create an unhealthy skin, this is because healthy skin is naturally acidic. It’s acidic for a purpose. Sweat; is a salty, watery solution produced by sweat glands, together with sebum, an oily substance produced by the sebaceous glands. The main role of sebum is to waterproof the skin and hair. When sebum mixes up with sweat on the skin surface, the combo forms a protective layer often referred to as the acid mantle. Acid Mantle, helps protect skin from “the elements” (such as wind or pollutants), acid mantle also inhibits the growth of harmful bacteria and fungi. If acid mantle is disrupted or loses its acidity, the skin becomes more prone to damage and infection. The loss of acid mantle is one of the side-effects of overwashing the skin with soaps or detergents of moderate or high strength, and we all know what happens then. Mainstream cosmetic companies are always trying to sell you the concept of toners, to re-acidify the skin after using their alkalizing facial wash. Therefore look for a neutral to low alkaline facial washs, you won’t have that problem. Now, does sweat complement my skin? Absolutely, it may not always be a vision of beauty, but it does make your skin healthy, and the result of healthy skin is beauty.

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WHITE TEA OR GREEN TEA FACIAL CREAM: WHO’S BIASED?

A question I’m often asked when a customer is choosing an anti-oxidant product, is which is best?  Many of the products, of course, are market driven.   In other words, it is whatever the trend for that moment that decides that products presence.  At the time , I was reading a study which found that green tea contained anti-oxidants called polyphenols that appeared to afford the protection against cancerous cells by starving growths, which was done by reducing the blood vessel growth near them, therefore stopping their supply line of nutrition and oxygen.   Pretty amazing stuff, I thought.  In  addition, this researcher, Dr. Santosh Katiyar who was studying the chemoprotective effects of green tea, found that green tea might also be effective against skin cancer if used topically in skin care creams. He was quick to point out that green tea was not a cure for skin cancer, but rather a preventive measure that needs further clinical testing and trials, but would have a profound impact on various skin disorders in the years to come. So what does a scientist do? Well he goes into his laboratory and attempts to create magic. To design a product that works; well, that’s what I did. 

Lets take a look at Green and White Tea.  First, Green Tea and White Tea are not fermented, in contrast to Black Tea, therefore, they contain much more active and intact polyphenol components.   The leaves of White Tea are picked and harvested before the leaves open fully, and at this time the leaves are covered by white fine hair, hence the name.  In comparison to the leaves of Green Tea, whereby they are allowed to grow to a fully form green leaf.  White Tea is also scarcer than the other traditional teas, and therefore quite expensive. In addition, White Tea Leaf also contains more concentrations of polyphenols than Green Tea Leaf. The results of studies with White Tea Leaf suggest a greater inhibitory potency in cancerous cells than Green Tea Leaf, because of increase polyphenol content. Our first anti-oxidant tea extract products were Green Tea Facial Wash and our Green Tea Facial Cream, which was later modified to the current White Tea Extract Facial Cream. 

So overall, what we did to our products was to increase the concentration levels of white and green tea extract actives.  This had been the cornerstone of our company from the beginning was to create cosmeceuticals products that worked due to containing optimal levels of active concentrates.

The thought behind creating our Green Tea Facial Wash, which is the second facial wash based on the formulation of our Original Facial Wash, was to create it with a lighter texture for two reasons: First, for ease of application to irritated skin. Secondly, when irritated skin is progressing through the healing and exfoliation process, the wash could be incorporated with our Oatmeal Herbal Masque for increase anti-inflammatory effects and for gentle removal of exfoliated skin debris.  The development behind this product was based on those people undergoing laser treatment or chemical peeling. We felt this was the ideal wash because it lightly cleansed tender skin while allowing the natural exfoliating of skin debris in the post-laser or post-peel healing stages. Further, we increased the extract levels over the maximum recommended for optimal effect. The Green Tea Facial Wash included active amounts of Green Tea Leaf Extract, noted for its soothing and anti-oxidant properties, and Chamomile Extract noted for its ant-inflammatory and calming properties. Originally, we started with Green Tea Extract Facial Cream which then evolved to the White Tea Extract Facial Cream, due to its increased levels of polyphenol. Our facial cream product had a whopping 20% concentrate of White Tea Actives.  What people didn’t know is that we could as very well place 0.1% white tea extract in our product and still said it contains white tea effectiveness as many in the cosmetic market place do.  But this was the nature of the cosmetic business we wanted to separate ourselves from.

So what was important, is when Green Tea and/or White Tea products were topically applied to the skin, it had the ability to modulate the biochemical pathways involved in skins natural inflammation process.  In other words, if you were in the sun at the beach all day, and incurred a sunburn, your skin would be inflamed and red. This inflammation and redness is directly due to the suns UV rays damaging skin cells.  How you’re body responds to this damage is the next question.  Will it heal up naturally or will it have damage some of your cells ability to replicate properly, possibly transforming some of those cells to skin cancer. That is the question.  The bottom line is that some current studies are suggesting the daily topical application of anti-oxidants such as white or green tea daily as a protective and preventive factor when outdoors and especially when spending lengthy recreational hours in the sun. Studies show that topical products that contain either Green Tea or White Tea polyphenols when applied to the skin interferes with the skins natural biochemical pathway by reducing the inflammatory responses.  So, I’m still asked which is best…. am I biased?  Really I’m Not, I still like both green and white equally.

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SKIN AND THE FRENCH CONNECTION

 Lets look at the relationship between skin and the French connection.  What you need to know is that the French perception of beauty and skin care is much different from the American perspective.  Skin does not soley exist by itself, but by the personification of our actions.  Why is it that Americans have always looked toward the French with the anticipation that they hold the the secret to the fountain of youth of skin and its ageless existence.  Well for one thing that the French and Americans do not have in common is overbathing.  As I remembered in younger days are month trip to Europe, and our concerns with bathrooms and showers, which caught the attention of hotel attendees.  American’s so were preoccupied with cleanliness and showers, soaps, scrubs and why is it that the French don’t shower as much?  Maybe that it is naturally unconvenient or inaccessible or part of French culture and  or simply just not important.  But the contradiction of not bathing was that your skin would retain its natural oils and its visual heathiness.  I don’t condone not bathing, but simple smart bathing.  Smells are produced by bacteria.  Its not important to lather up or soap up your arms chest legs hands.  Simply because these areas just don’t get dirty. Showering or bathing daily, every other day etc. I only cleanse with mild soap as they would say my “private parts”.   Underarms, and you know the rest, if your male or female…  the other parts of your body do not need to be salt scrub, loofah’d, wash clothed to death or brushed to the perceived illusion of cleanliness.  Cleanliness is not about tearing and stripping your skin to oblivion.

When I was young my Father would make lite regarding the event of bathing, “It wasn’t Saturday”, he would say.  In other words bathing was a once a week event.  My father would work the fields and handle cattle on a ranch, you could only imagine, but this was acceptable part of society for that time, late 1930’s. Of course, during the rest of the week people would use a wash cloth or rinse off, in order to quick cleanse. But there was that one day, Saturday, that would be bathing day.  When you take a look at the past and analyze the present there is a difference.  It’s just important to be aware that there is a different truth and reality than what is mainstream marketed.

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MINERAL OIL: NATURAL OR NOT NATURAL, A MARKETING FALLACY?

I often am posed questions with regards to our products use of mineral oil, and how destructive it is to the skin. Though I have never seen studies to show otherwise. I found that representatives of the cosmetic industry have been passing the information of bad news of mineral oil. The perception that mineral oil as an undesirable ingredient continues through word of mouth, without any real basis in fact. Actually, mineral oil is a safe, effective, time-proven ingredient, preferred by many formulators. Yes, its inexpensive, but by far has effective characteristics that cannot be beat, the bottom line is that they work. Mineral Oil unfortunately gets a bad rap because it sounds so unnatural, but is actually as natural as any plant.  It is actually one of the most exceptional, least irritating, least problematic-causing ingredients for the skin.  Mineral Oil is of course a “natural” product, derived from purifying crude oil, and it’s  origins are derived from the degradation of plant material.  Therefore mineral oil in not sythesized, it occurs naturally in the earth, and is simply purified to the final state.

When mineral oil is incorporated into a cosmetic product, it requires less preservatives than using natural products. There is no doubt that there are impeccable qualities in “naturally” derived plant oils, but of course, need more preservatives to counteract growth of molds and bacteria, due to many nutrients that it contains.  In addition, mineral oil has little or no allergic reactions when compared to natural oils, and is number one recommended as a moisturizer for acne-prone skin.  Orally, mineral oil can be ingested with no side effects.  It is also known that hydrocarbons of a parafinic structure, such as mineral oil, exist naturally in human skin.

Mineral oil remains a key moisturizing ingredient due to (1) its well-documented reduction of transdermal water loss, and (2) its greater barrier to water vapor transmission than that of many other commonly used emollients.  In animal studies, it has been shown that mineral oil has no comedogenic potential.  More astonishing, when mineral oil was tested on humans, it was found to be completely non-comedogenic, compared to many plant derived oils.  Topical use of mineral oil does not represent a local or systemic toxicity risk to humans.  The most common function that mineral oil plays in cosmetics is one of moisturizing. It has been known for decades that efforts to overcome dry skin usually involve applying a moisture barrier to the skin surface which will retard the loss of water from the stratum corneum through evaporation. The reduction of this transepidermal water loss is what is meant by the term “moisturization”, even though no water is actually lost.

Remember, Petrolatum and Mineral Oil are natural products derived from degraded plant material from prehistoric times.  Be aware of mainstream marketing.  For example, just because a cosmetic company claims “oil free”, doesn’t mean it is.  Synthetic oils must be called “oil free”, because it was not derived naturally.  Only a natural derived products can be identified as an “oil”.  It is alway imperative not to believe everything that is mainstream marketed, but question and seek answers.

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FRAXEL LASER AND LASER TREATMENT: WHAT IS YOUR OPINION?

Fraxel laser treatment, affects a fraction of skin tissue at a time with thousands of microscopic columns-each one-tenth the diameter of a hair follicle. These microscopic laser columns penetrate deep into the dermis to create tiny wounds, which inadvertanly triggers your body’s natural defense system to heal those tiny wounds. Inadvertanly, the process expedites your body’s remodeling of collagen and elastin, which results in tighter, fresher, more youthful looking skin. The question is does it work? Fraxel laser treatment is also known as fractional photothermolysis. The word photothermolysis comes from three Greek root words – “photo” meaning light, “thermo” meaning heat, and “lysis” meaning destruction. Pretty destructive terms wouldn’t you say, I call it microwaving your skin. By sending laser light below the skin levels, with heat enough to damage or wound living tissue, in the hopes that your skin will by the inflammation process, heal, and regenerate newer better looking skin. Does this sound like anyway to attain healthy skin? Skin is not a TV dinner that can continually sustain reheating in the hopes that younger skin will arrive. It is my opinion, that continued reheating treatments by laser can only have repercussions in eventually damaging skin and promoting the aging process.

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GLYCOLIC ACID: HOW IT EFFECTS AND IMPROVES YOUR SKIN

BioKorium has been experimenting and applying Glycolic Acid to their clients and family for 15 years. We are convinced it is the safest way to remove debris from the skin. At BioKorium no two facials are alike, every facial is determined on the client’s skin condition on arrival. All BioKorium’s Creams and Salves are handmade and compounded by co-founder Dr. Javier O. Moreno, Pharm.D., R.Ph. These products are designed to work.  Facials at BioKorium are treatment facials. Results from BioKorium facials using Glycolic Acids are noticed immediately. Every product that we utilize serves a purpose and works.  At BioKorium we believe every woman and man over 40 needs to be on treatment products that work. If we can teach them at 30 the importance of treatment early on, we are ahead of the game. BioKorium Skin Care is not a luxury it’s a necessity.

Glycolic Acid is one of a group of naturally occurring fruit acids also recognized as Alpha Hydroxy Acids or AHA’s. AHA’s are among the oldest of skin care products. Milk baths were included in Marie Antoinette’s beauty ritual, red wine was often the choice of English aristocracy, and raw sugar cane was used on the skin of Polynesian women; all which contain forms of AHA’s.  Glycolic Acid is derived from sugar cane and is non-toxic. It has the ability to dissolve the glue from the upper layer of skin cells allowing a more youthful, smoother looking appearance to be revealed. Unlike other AHA’s such as lactic acid from sour milk or citric acid from citrus fruits, to name a few, Glycolic Acid has the smallest molecular size, therefore it can penetrate the skin more efficiently. It also has the ability to absorb water upon exposure to air therefore functioning to add moisture back into the skin. 5% Glycolic Acid is what we consider “baby glycolic” almost any one can use.

The cells of the Stratum Corneum start life in the Stratum Basal as Basal Membrane Cells. The transformation of the Basal Membrane Cells into Stratum Corneum Cells is shown in the figure to the left. The average transit time of the basal layer to your skin’s natural exfoliation process is approximately 8 weeks. The upper most layer of your skin is composed of the Stratum Corneum, which is a stack of 15 to 20 layers of dead skin cells. Structurally, this layer contributes to the overall elasticity and smooth appearance of the skin.  As we age, the rate in which the Stratum Corneum naturally exfoliates,  decreases, therefore the layer of dead skin cells at the surface increases.  This build up of cells, in conjunction with the decrease ability to retain water, leads to a series of age related surface irregularities. These include the lack of luster and smoothness of the skin, as well as in ones appearance.  The skin at the surface becoming  rough and dry, ultimately leading to the most visible sign of age dependent change……wrinkling.   The first important thing to bring back  is the health of the skin, the side effect will be increased vitality and luster, contributing to ones overall appearance.  Without the health of the skin, you will have neither.

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ACNE MYTHS

Cosmetic Companies want you to have bad skin, that way you are in desperation and always looking.  Looking, to find the answer to clearing your acne skin.  The connection between acne and mainstream acne products is “dehydration”.  What we don’t know about the care of acne is that over washing not only irritates existing acne skin, but can dry the skin by removing the skins protective layer of natural oils which actually prevents the spread of acne associated bacteria. These activities destroys the skins natural resilience and protective properties by destroying the skin natural pH.   Further use of scrubbing cleansers can makes things worse, by further stripping the skin and creating an environment where the skin will have difficulty recuperating to its natural healthy state.  The worst fallacy of acne is that it is directly due to what you eat, in turn, causing increase bacterial growth and oil build up.  Therefore you need to keep it clean, but no to the extent of your skin becoming dry.  People do not realize that the truth regarding acne, is that acne needs moisture, and we fail to moisturize acne skin.  We are taught that acne skin must be scrubbed and cleansed anywhere from twice to three times daily it order for it to go away. Not true! You not only will be destroying your skin but will only exacerbate your problem of acne. The answer is balance, use a low or non alkaline cleanser or facial wash, followed by a good hydration cream, or low percentage glycolic acid cream.